Le GV Malta Review: Michelin-Starred Dining Above the Mediterranean

Since the arrival of the Michelin Guide to Malta and Gozo in 2020, the islands’ culinary landscape has continued to grow both in scale and recognition. What began as three one-starred restaurants has expanded to seven, alongside 48 establishments now recognised across a diverse range of cuisines. In just a few years, Malta has shifted from an emerging player to a destination increasingly defined by its gastronomic ambition.

It is within this context that Le GV first came onto my radar. An open-kitchen, experiential dining concept inspired by the elegance of the Orient Express, the restaurant gained its first Michelin star just six months after opening. At the helm is Executive Chef Andrew Borg, alongside Pastry Chef David Tanti, who combine technical precision and a thoughtful, experience-led approach to create a dining journey shaped by interaction and surprise.

Intrigued by the idea of a blind tasting, we opted for the Carte Blanche with wine pairing. With the promise of six surprise courses ahead, I was curious to see where the kitchen would take us, and the role that storytelling and guideship would play along the way.

Inside Le GV’s Orient Express-Inspired Dining Room

To begin, we were led to our white-linen table, past the open kitchen and through a long, carriage-like space framed with dark wood panelling and geometric Art Deco lines. With velvet seats and soft lighting, it felt nostalgic and somewhat cinematic; a transportation back to the opulence of the Roaring Twenties.

From here, the front-of-house team took centre stage. Through gentle conversation, they explored our preferences and level of curiosity, gaining insights that would directly influence our dining progression. “We pay close attention to body language and tone,” says Andrew. “A guest who confidently says, ‘we love everything,’ signals a sense of adventure and openness to being challenged. In contrast, hesitation guides us toward a more conservative interpretation of the menu.”

Le GV’s Carte Blanche Menu and Wine Pairing Experience

This customisable format gained further complexity when paired with wine. After a soft-but-tangy cauliflower velouté amuse-bouche, we were joined by Head Sommelier Brayan Oliveira, whose inclusive approach brought our tastes into direct partnership with his worldly expertise. Over six courses, he led us on a voyage of discovery, from the hallowed terroir of Burgundy through to the mineral-rich, volcanic landscapes of Tokaj.

His storytelling was nothing short of exquisite, tending each bottle like a rare tome taken from a collector’s library, and bringing it into a conversation that continued to evolve based on our real-time feedback. Considering this was also anchored to a menu that is actively imagined around the individual guest, the result was something highly bespoke and incredibly special.

The dishes unfolded with consistent precision, always guided by our pace. Between courses such as local red prawns in shio koji with yuzu marmalade, and gnocchi filled with caramelised celeriac purée and black trumpet tapenade, breaks were offered intuitively, without rush or expectation. For me, the standout was the barbecued, morel-stuffed pigeon with Albufera sauce, a rich and deeply savoury finale accompanied by a tasting of the Edouard Delaunay, Pommard 1er Cru ‘Les Chaponnieres’ 2019, one of Brayan’s favourites.

As Head Sommelier, Brayan’s role is not just to introduce guests to unique pairings, but to actively shape the in-house portfolio. “Today we have over 10 producers being imported exclusively to Le GV,” he says. “Our culture here is to seek the best we can get, even if it’s not available in the Maltese market.” A perfect example of this is Domaine Guillon & Fils of Gevrey-Chambertin. Of 24,000 bottles produced annually, only 120 are imported to Malta, and all of those are available solely at Le GV.

The Chef’s Table and Rooftop Dining at Le GV Malta

Guests seeking an intimate encounter with the kitchen can opt for the chef’s table, a countertop dining experience reservable for a maximum of just three people. This exclusive setting transforms the kitchen into both stage and workshop, where direct engagement with the culinary team is encouraged. This, alongside outdoor seating with views across Sliema and the elegant indoor salon, creates three distinct environments in which to experience the menu.

Why Le GV Is One of Malta’s Most Exciting Michelin-Starred Restaurants

With an impressive rooftop setting above the Mediterranean and fluid dining options shaped by real human voices, Le GV offers an experience that feels connective and personal. Coupled with a blend of artistry and technical precision, it’s a restaurant that, without doubt, will only continue to ascend.

https://legv.mt/