Beyond the Birkin: Why Hermès Is Having a Serious Watchmaking Moment
There are few names in luxury that can make a waiting list feel like a social event. But while the world has been watching Hermès handbags, the French maison has been busy building something altogether more intricate: a serious place for itself in Swiss watchmaking.
And no, this is not simply a case of putting a beautiful dial on a beautiful leather strap and calling it haute horlogerie. Hermès wants its watches to be appreciated for what happens beneath the surfaceeven if the famous orange box still has a tendency to steal the spotlight.
Hermès watches in 2026: from silk scarves to Swiss movements
Hermès entered watchmaking in 1978, establishing La Montre Hermès in Switzerland. Its design DNA has never been in doubt.
The more interesting development is the depth of technical expertise behind the watches: investments in movement production, specialist components and manufacturing have moved the business well beyond fashion accessories.
In April 2026, the maison increased its stake in Swiss movement specialist Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier from 25 to 40 per cent. Meanwhile, its Le Noirmont manufacturing site is being expanded, with completion scheduled for 2028. These are decidedly long-term commitments, not the sort of decisions one makes to capitalise on a passing trend.
The watches making collectors look twice
The H08 Squelette is perhaps the clearest expression of the new direction. Its openworked design reveals the architecture of the H1978 S automatic movement, bringing an unmistakably contemporary edge to the sporty H08 family. Think mechanical theatre, with the confident restraint of Hermès design.
For those who prefer their complications with a little poetry, the Slim d’Hermès Squelette Lune combines a transparent dial with a double moon-phase display.
The Arceau Samarcande, meanwhile, goes gloriously more theatrical: a minute repeater beneath an intricately worked Saint-Louis crystal dial with an equestrian reference. Hermès can be technically ambitious without forgetting how to have fun.
A long game, even in a difficult market
The timing is intriguing. Hermès reported €125 million in watch revenue for the third quarter of 2026, a decline of 6 per cent at constant exchange rates compared with the same period a year earlier. Sales across the first nine months reached €393 million. Yet the investment in facilities and expertise continues.
That distinction matters. Serious watchmaking is rarely built around one exceptional launch or one buoyant quarter. It requires reliable technical foundations, an enduring design language and enough confidence to invest through the less glamorous parts of the cycle.
Can Hermès become a watch collector’s first choice?
The challenge is as much about perception as production. The Birkin and Kelly have made Hermès synonymous with extraordinary demand, while established Swiss maisons command generations of horological loyalty.
To win over enthusiasts, an Hermès watch has to be wanted for its movement, finishing and design — not as a stepping stone to something else.
Our view? The interesting question is no longer whether Hermès can make a beautiful watch. It plainly can. It is whether the next generation of collectors will regard an H08 or an Arceau as the main event. On the evidence of the latest creations, we would not bet against it.
Related reading: our guide to luxury watch price movements in 2026.
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