Inside Four Seasons Bosphorus, Istanbul: Hotel Review

It’s 2pm on a Tuesday, and I’m lying on a warm marble slab beneath the domed ceiling of a hammam, while a middle-aged Turkish woman pours generous bucketfuls of foamy water over my legs and chest. Part ritual, part performance, the experience is both otherworldly and oddly grounding. With expert precision, she scrubs, massages and exfoliates, removing layers of Istanbul that have clung to my skin like memory.

She gestures toward the residue being washed away - perhaps remnants of Karaköy’s famous fish wraps - and mutters, “Look. Dirty,” with a mix of amusement and pride. Whether she's astonished that a 30-year-old woman has never exfoliated behind her ears, or simply pleased with her work, I’ll never know. But my skin feels new – baby-soft – and I leave the room smelling like a Diptyque boutique in full bloom.

This deeply traditional ritual takes place in the basement spa of the Four Seasons Hotel Istanbul at the Bosphorus, a restored 19th-century Ottoman palace perched on the edge of the iconic strait. Once a retreat for the Sultan’s inner circle, the property was reimagined by the Four Seasons in 2008, joining its sister site in Sultanahmet (a former prison turned five-star hotel) as one of the city’s most prestigious addresses.

It features hammam experiences for females, males, and couples, along with nine treatment rooms, a steam room, sauna, hot tub, and both an indoor pool with an underwater sound system and an outdoor heated pool that opens seasonally in May. There’s also a gym offering one-to-one personal training sessions as well as group classes for those inclined.

Treatments include infrared therapy and oxygenation facials. I opt for the real McCoy: a 45-minute Traditional Turkish Hammam (£166), a historic Roman, Byzantine, and Ottoman cleansing practice that purifies and massages the body, now enhanced by all-natural Sodashi and Biologique Recherche products.

The treatment room reflects this rich history, with a marble göbektaşı (heating platform) at its centre, blue mosaics, ornate tas (water bowls), and an Ottoman-style lantern that transports you back to the days of old Constantinople. Nazar amulets (evil eyes) are also dotted around the room to ward off bad spirits.

To round off my experience, the Hammam gently washes my hair, which feels surprisingly more intimate than the body scrub, and I'm wrapped in a peshtemal (a traditional wrap in place of a robe).

A smoothie shot follows, and I'm sent on my way to enjoy post-treatment treats, including dried apricots and free access to a Dyson hairdryer.

Smug in my newly refreshed skin, I head to my fourth-floor suite—one of 25 at the 170-room property.

The balcony overlooks the Bosphorus Bridge, the New Mosque, and the shores of Asia. The room oozes old-school charm and quiet luxury, with a wooden writing desk, tan récamier, king-sized bed, and freestanding bath. Thoughtful touches like slippers placed next to the bed at night, along with a handwritten note forecasting the next day’s weather, truly set this place apart.

It’s easy to see why José Mourinho and Sarah Jessica Parker chose to stay here.

That evening, I dined at Ocakbaşı, a pop-up restaurant on the terrace specialising in charcoal-cooked kebabs and mezze. I begin with complimentary bread, cheese, and pickles—every vegetarian's dream—before ordering a selection of starters, including spicy dried chilli, condensed yoghurt, garlic dip, and stuffed mushrooms with kashar cheese. For the main, I try the vegetarian Manti (Turkish dumplings), paired with a mocktail inspired by famous works of art like The Mona Lisa and Klimt’s The Kiss.

On-site, there are two other restaurants: Yali, a Mediterranean eatery serving Turkish pide (oval-shaped flatbread topped with meat and cheese), and Aqua, perfect for seafood lovers with dishes like grilled rock sea bass and 30-day aged beef chops.

The breakfast spread is exceptional, with an extensive olive bar and bakery featuring cards that detail the Turkish regions the food hails from. The showstopper, though, is the giant red lobster with the face of Salvador Dalí, hanging over the fruit station.

Nearby, you'll find the tulip-filled Yıldız Park, one of Istanbul’s largest public parks, as well as the National Palaces Painting Museum, which showcases paintings of Ottoman palaces from the 19th and early 20th centuries.

Or, for something a little livelier, head west to Istiklal Street in Kadikoy for live music and a guaranteed hangover. But fear not—I've got a hammam for that.