Review: Milk Beach Soho

Milk Beach Soho is an Australian restaurant, tucked just beyond the frenzy of Charing Cross Road within the chic and calm James’ Court. The space exudes understated elegance, complete with an outdoor terrace ideal for sun-drenched brunches or, on brisker evenings, curling up beneath a plush blanket with one of their signature mango chilli margaritas in hand. It was a typical London winter evening when I rocked up, so I was glad to take my seat indoors.

Dim lighting, neutral hues, chillout beats in the background, and an easy, unforced atmosphere set the tone. The staff epitomised Sydney chic; that cool, confident, good-vibes-only attitude. Every detail here is curated for the eye. And whether it’s clever lighting or something more atmospheric, there’s a distinct sense of sun-kissed ease. You really do feel like you’ve walked from Soho into a Sydney Harbour hotspot.

Cocktails are all part of the Milk Beach experience. The bespoke list leans into playful reinvention, with each signature serve carrying an Aussie twist, most notably, their reimagined Piña Colada, using Papa Salt Gin from Byron Bay. 

The menu is sectioned into nibbles, raw, plates, robata and sides. Robata, short for robatayaki, translates to fireside-cooking and is a traditional Japanese method of grilling food over hot charcoal, a technique that anchors much of the offering. An open kitchen frames the experience, allowing diners to watch the chefs at work.

We welcomed the maître d’ to confidently lead the way with the menu – she chose a curated selection of plates for us, delivered in a relaxed, as-ready rhythm that flows in line with the space.

The standout dishes were the aubergine karaage finished with mirin glaze and peanut crumb   – sticky and rich; while the tuna tartare with kaffir lime vinaigrette and puffed nori struck a clean, citrus-bright balance. Fresh from the grill, the juiciest flame grilled honey, lime and garlic prawns with dipping sauce were moreish; and the turf to my surf, was the dry-aged Belted Galloway ribeye, served perfectly pink and expertly seasoned.

If you’re after a quick meal, Milk Beach may not be for you; it’s the kind of place that invites you to stay a little longer. Just one more? And really, who wouldn’t want to while away another hour down under?

www.milkbeach.com