London Fashion Week: Inside Paul Costelloe’s Powerful AW26 Debut

There are moments at London Fashion Week when a show feels less like a seasonal presentation and more like a turning point. We were there to witness exactly that as Paul Costelloe unveiled its Autumn/Winter 2026 collection, a powerful debut from William Costelloe in his first season as Creative Director.

Set against the polished energy of the LFW schedule, the show carried a palpable sense of anticipation. From the first look to the final walk, AW26 unfolded as a collection rooted in tailoring, structure and legacy, while confidently signalling a new creative chapter for the house.

Tailoring Takes the Lead

From the opening moments, it was clear that this was a collection built on precision. Strong, sculpted shoulders and bold proportions anchored silhouettes that felt commanding yet considered. Tailoring crafted from 100% Irish wools and tweeds by Magee Fabrics grounded the collection in heritage, immediately reinforcing the brand’s commitment to craftsmanship.

Hand-crafted sculpted florals, formed from the same tweeds, appeared throughout, subtle but impactful details that felt both modern and deeply familiar, bridging past and present.

Structure, Softened

Watching from inside the show space, the dialogue between structure and fluidity became one of the collection’s most compelling themes. Corsetry and sharply tailored coats were softened with silk and organza blouses, while oversized collars swept dramatically over the head. Wide pleated trousers added movement, creating ease without sacrificing authority.

Tonal dressing played a quiet but crucial role. Colour-on-colour styling across blouses, ties and tailored separates enhanced the sculptural quality of the looks, allowing cut and construction to take centre stage.

Knitwear emerged as a standout category, with full cashmere rib and cable designs featuring exaggerated collars and sculpted shoulders, powerful yet elegant pieces that felt effortlessly wearable.

A Refined Colour Story

The colour palette remained tightly edited and assured. Earth-toned tweeds, creams, chocolate and tan browns dominated the early looks, before transitioning into a dramatic finale of black and charcoal. Here, the mood subtly shifted. Sequined suits and tuxedos with diamante button details introduced a refined sense of eveningwear, alongside fluid black-and-silver jacquard dresses that shimmered under the runway lights without tipping into excess.

Jewellery with Meaning

For the third consecutive season, the house collaborated with jewellery designer PK Bijoux. The sculptural, one-of-a-kind pieces, repurposed from vintage medals, chains and buckles, felt perfectly aligned with the collection’s ethos, blurring the line between heritage craftsmanship and bold modern design.

A Collection Woven with Legacy

Perhaps the most emotionally resonant element of the show lay in its final detail: an in-house print designed by Paul and William Costelloe together, produced in three colourways. It marks their final collaboration before Paul Costelloe’s passing, an enduring tribute to their shared creative vision.

As William Costelloe shared following the show, “My father will always be my inspiration. Creating beautiful clothes for all women to dream and wear with pride and love.”

From inside the room, AW26 felt like more than a debut. It was a statement of continuity, confidence and evolution, reaffirming Paul Costelloe’s place at the heart of London Fashion Week, where heritage and modernity walk hand in hand.